December 6 & 7 (7), 2007 HOME

   

 

The washer below provides clearance between the drive gear head in the governor pad and the housing.  Because the gear is integral to the shaft (machined as one piece), there is a slight bevel in the transition from the shaft to the gear.  The washer has to a complimentary bevel to allow it fit flush against the gear.  It is important to get it right.

 

It is the washer properly installed on the shaft against the gear head.

 

The shaft installs into the governor pad and is locked in place with an outside snap ring.  It is not clear in the picture, but the shaft has the gear head on one end (seen above) and a female spline in the other.

 

Left to right, the next group of characters are, oil suction (finger) screen, oil filter bypass valve and oil pressure relief valve.

 

"So," he asked, "what gets attached to the accessory case?"  I didn't want to answer.  Was this the old, "Who's buried in Grant's Tomb?" question?  Finally, I said, "Accessories."  I was right!

Actually, what gets attached to the accessory case are mostly parts that hold accessories and each one needs a gasket, just like almost everything else.

 

The vacuum drive (pad) has an internal spline shaft.  I will use it to drive my auxiliary alternator, because I will have 2 independent electrical systems.

 

This is just a picture of the installed accessory case with the prop governor on the left and the vacuum pump pad on the bottom right.

 

The arrow is pointing to the tachometer drive.  Again, I won't be using this, so it will be capped.  I will take engine RPM from the FADEC gear via FADEC's RS-422 and RS-232 outputs to EFIS.

 

The oil filter adapter; I chose to install the offset adapter to make the filter somewhat more accessible.  Hopefully, it will mean less oil on the floor and on my engine.

 

The oil filter adapter uses one stud (pre-installed in the accessory case) and 3 bolts.  I don't know why.

 

One more picture, only to prove it gets torqued, just like everything else....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A very water-heater-hose looking nipple provides a hose connection for crankcase ventilation.

The oil filter bypass valve is inserted into the oil filter housing and safety wired.

The oil pressure relief valve is a simple ported housing with check ball, spring and adjustment rod.

When installed and safety wired, the oil pressure relief valve adjustment rod is backed out all the way and then turned in 4 full turns.  That ballparks it.  Final adjustment will be made when the engine is run on the test stand.

There is a lot of time laying out nuts, bolts and washers.  In this case, for the oil sump and intake.

The sump ins put in place.

Bolts are installed and,

it is torqued when the fit is right.

The first thing the sump gets is the oil screen.  A little lube is added to the threads.

The oil screen (actually, oil suction screen) is a fairly large finger screen.

The oil screen is sealed with a crush washer, so it is inserted finger tight.

No torque wrench is used for crush washers.  You simply tighten them until you feel them crush and just begin to firm up.  Too much and they lose their seal.

 

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